How do you make sure you are hitting Nebula at -18dbfs?

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basaristudios
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Re: How do you make sure you are hitting Nebula at -18dbfs?

Post by basaristudios » Thu Jan 28, 2016 5:11 pm

giancarlo wrote:(for the exception of titanium) are based on EBU standard, so -18dBFS.
GC, can you elaborate more on that please? I mean about Titanium.

Thanks
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Re: How do you make sure you are hitting Nebula at -18dbfs?

Post by giancarlo » Thu Jan 28, 2016 6:14 pm

there is no input trim on titanium. It is based on -18dBFs = 0dBu. When you hit with a 0dBFs you have 0dBu. Threshold is at the beginning of that point.

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Re: How do you make sure you are hitting Nebula at -18dbfs?

Post by Puranon » Thu Jan 28, 2016 7:55 pm

Hornet has a VU meter plug.
http://www.hornetplugins.com/plugins/hornet-vu-meter/

Sonalksis free G is another one.
http://www.sonalksis.com/freeg.htm

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Re: How do you make sure you are hitting Nebula at -18dbfs?

Post by ceemusic » Thu Jan 28, 2016 9:21 pm

Here's a freebie from HOFA with other nice features you can use too.
Image
http://hofa-plugins.de/en/plugins/4u/

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Re: How do you make sure you are hitting Nebula at -18dbfs?

Post by namooz » Fri Jan 29, 2016 12:03 am

Support wrote:Pink noise has 9 dB of dynamic range, so your normal/average level is -24 dBFSD in a stereo 2.0 speaker configuration each speaker should generate 83 dBSPL at that level.
Thanks for the info. What would possibly be the best dbFSD number to shoot for? All the best….

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Re: How do you make sure you are hitting Nebula at -18dbfs?

Post by basaristudios » Fri Jan 29, 2016 5:20 am

namooz wrote: Thanks for the info. What would possibly be the best dbFSD number to shoot for? All the best….
I never heard of what DBFSD means or anything but DBFS...there
is no BEST NUMBER, 0dbvu simply means -18dbfs and that is the
BEST NUMBER...but still depends what standard you are using.
It can be also in LUFS which is usually recommended at -23lufs
which would equal to -23dbfs. I calibrate with Sine Wave at
-20dbfs and start from there, i mostly use EBU R128 Standard.
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Re: How do you make sure you are hitting Nebula at -18dbfs?

Post by namooz » Fri Jan 29, 2016 8:49 am

[email protected] wrote:
namooz wrote: Thanks for the info. What would possibly be the best dbFSD number to shoot for? All the best….
I never heard of what DBFSD means or anything but DBFS...there
is no BEST NUMBER, 0dbvu simply means -18dbfs and that is the
BEST NUMBER...but still depends what standard you are using.
It can be also in LUFS which is usually recommended at -23lufs
which would equal to -23dbfs. I calibrate with Sine Wave at
-20dbfs and start from there, i mostly use EBU R128 Standard.

I never heard of what DBFSD means or anything but DBFS...there
is no BEST NUMBER, 0dbvu simply means -18dbfs and that is the
BEST NUMBER...but still depends what standard you are using.
It can be also in LUFS which is usually recommended at -23lufs
which would equal to -23dbfs. I calibrate with Sine Wave at
-20dbfs and start from there, i mostly use EBU R128 Standard.[/quote]

I hadn't heard of it before either. I supposed it may have something to do with D-dynamic range even though there are no consistencies with analog db references and dbfs. Typo? Nobody's perfect, even a Genius. It was in his 1st response to me, right above yours. Thanks.

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Re: How do you make sure you are hitting Nebula at -18dbfs?

Post by enriquesilveti » Fri Jan 29, 2016 10:40 am

dB FS D =

- dB is decibel (bel is the unit, should be B and not b).
- FS is full scale.
- D is digital, no D means could be analog or digital domain.

EBU recommend to still calibrate with -18 dBFS for both EBU-r68 and EBU-r128. If you calibrate with -20 dBFS you are using SMTPE RP-155, difference between both is 6 dB and not 2 dB. So SMTPE RP-155 will work better with bigger dynamic range audio programs, you can even go below for example calibrate at -24 dBFS but will depend the noise floor of your system.

You should research all your system, from recording inputs to loudspeakers and the studio acoustical sound pressure in dBSPL, for example normally audio interfaces are calibrated to -18 dBFS and several ones to -24 dBFS while converters normally are calibrated to work at -15 dBFS that is the old CD standard, add N**e or Midas console distort around 24 to 26 dBu.

(Time for buy a voltmeter tester)
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Re: How do you make sure you are hitting Nebula at -18dbfs?

Post by basaristudios » Fri Jan 29, 2016 4:02 pm

:) ;)
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Re: How do you make sure you are hitting Nebula at -18dbfs?

Post by namooz » Fri Jan 29, 2016 11:59 pm

enriquesilveti wrote:dB FS D =

- dB is decibel (bel is the unit, should be B and not b).
- FS is full scale.
- D is digital, no D means could be analog or digital domain.

EBU recommend to still calibrate with -18 dBFS for both EBU-r68 and EBU-r128. If you calibrate with -20 dBFS you are using SMTPE RP-155, difference between both is 6 dB and not 2 dB. So SMTPE RP-155 will work better with bigger dynamic range audio programs, you can even go below for example calibrate at -24 dBFS but will depend the noise floor of your system.

You should research all your system, from recording inputs to loudspeakers and the studio acoustical sound pressure in dBSPL, for example normally audio interfaces are calibrated to -18 dBFS and several ones to -24 dBFS while converters normally are calibrated to work at -15 dBFS that is the old CD standard, add N**e or Midas console distort around 24 to 26 dBu.

(Time for buy a voltmeter tester)
My console input peak light (20) comes on at +21dbu (11.3 dbv). I also measured my DAW output at 1.2dbu - outputting -10 dbfs) When I look at the Aruora software interface it was reading quite low at +24 dbfs, naturally. So I proceded to bump it. At this point I contacted the forum. Keep in mind I'm "thinking" OTB, trying to arrive at my landing strip, trying diligently to get there in a reasonable, more scientific way along with my ears.
Yes, my equivalent overall dbfs was -24-thanks to Giancarlo letting me know. Since I am using a console and outboard it was too low for good SNR-around 64 dbu, maybe a little less. My DAW faders were all at scale "0" so I had plenty of room to bump each by a close 3db. There was a nice sweet spot around -24 but raising everything by that amount gives me now an overall SNR around 73/4 dbu. I can live with that easily-still nothing like my old Ampex AG440B 8 track without dolby. I did the old bump the high end for record and lower for playback "thing"-not by much. I loved the sound and miss it, but you Acustica guys have gotten me so much closer. It warms my heart to thank you.

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